Ghana has become a major destination for the world’s unwanted clothes, with vast quantities of used garments flooding into the country’s markets, landfills, and waterways. While many people donate old clothes in an effort to help others, the reality is that much of the second-hand clothing sent to Ghana is in poor condition and contributes to mounting environmental and economic challenges.

The Kantamanto market in Accra, Ghana’s capital, has long served as a central hub for these discarded garments. Every day, bales of second-hand clothes from Europe and North America are offloaded, creating a marketplace where local traders buy and sell these goods. However, a significant portion of these clothes are unsuitable for resale—torn, faded, or simply outdated.

For many traders, the arrival of new bales is a gamble. The clothes inside are often of such poor quality that they cannot be sold. In many cases, large amounts of the stock are discarded, either sent to landfills or burned as fuel. This waste not only creates a burden for the traders but also contributes to the growing pollution problem in the country.

The environmental damage caused by the influx of textile waste is extensive. Many of the clothes, made from synthetic materials like polyester, do not biodegrade. Instead, they break down into microplastics, which accumulate in the environment and pose a long-term threat to wildlife and human health. In addition to filling local landfills, the waste often finds its way into waterways, washing up on beaches and polluting the ocean.

Local fishermen also bear the brunt of this waste. Nets used to catch fish often end up tangled with plastic waste and discarded clothing, further reducing the already limited fish stocks available to small-scale operators. This not only disrupts the livelihoods of local fishermen but also impacts the broader ecosystem.

In response to the growing crisis, non-profit organizations are working to mitigate the effects of textile waste by removing and repurposing discarded garments. These efforts include collecting large quantities of waste from beaches and repurposing the materials into new products. However, these initiatives face significant challenges, as the sheer volume of waste continues to increase, overwhelming local resources.

The root cause of the textile waste crisis lies in the global fashion industry’s overproduction and overconsumption. Fast fashion has led to an explosion in the number of cheap, low-quality garments being produced, and many of these clothes are discarded quickly after being bought. The excess is often donated to thrift stores, but a large portion of these donations ends up as waste, purchased by middlemen who export it to countries like Ghana. However, Ghana lacks the necessary infrastructure to properly recycle or manage this influx of waste.

Some global fashion industry groups have started to recognize the problem and have expressed support for initiatives that promote textile recycling and better waste management systems. While some governments and organizations are exploring ways to encourage garment recycling, experts argue that this approach alone will not resolve the issue. The real solution lies in reducing the overall consumption of fast fashion and shifting towards more sustainable production practices.

For many people in Ghana, second-hand clothes have long provided an affordable alternative to new garments. However, as the quality of these imported clothes declines, they are becoming a burden rather than a benefit. Traders at the Kantamanto market express frustration with the poor condition of the clothing they are forced to sell, longing for the days when second-hand garments were durable and of higher quality.

In response to the growing textile waste problem, some countries and regions are starting to introduce policies requiring garment retailers to collect and recycle used clothing. However, experts warn that significant change in the global fashion industry is needed for these initiatives to be truly effective. Consumers must shift toward more sustainable shopping habits, and brands need to prioritize quality and longevity over the rapid turnover of cheap, disposable fashion.

As Ghana continues to face the mounting challenge of textile waste, it is clear that the country cannot bear the burden of the world’s discarded clothes indefinitely. Without major changes in the global fashion industry, nations like Ghana will continue to struggle with the environmental and economic costs of this global waste crisis.